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I'm pretty sure they are using fonts for their headlines. The alternative would be to handwrite their headlines, and that wouldn't look as consistent. My local paper has serif headlines, sans serif headings within articles, and serif body text for articles. It is common practice to use both a serif font and a sans serif font on the same page, using one for body and one for headings.

Serif / sans-serif is OK, but what you had was a weirdo font that would leave you cross-eyed if you would have to read an entire page of it. What you have now is at least a neutral typeface without any unnecessary curves and corners, and is much, much better IMO.

Largest fault in the page that is apparent is that the overall title (the variant name) is not centered on the text, but on text + the floating contents table on the right. Which looks very asymmetrical. I think it would be better to have that floating contens table also float right of the header.

As to the size of the font: how is it possible that you don't experience this at least as bad as I do, with left ASIDE and an even smaller screen? Are the font-sizes somehow screen-size dependent? The diagram width should be fixed, in pixels. If the left ASIDE is also equally wide, it means you must have fewer pixels for the text to the right of the diagram. How much text does fit on the first line for you? For me that is:

  Chu Shogi ('Middle Shogi') has been the dominant form of Chess in Japan for many centuries, until the

Or is your screen so narrow that it doesn't display anything right of the diagram at all, and gives the piece list entirely below it? This would also be fatal for the design of the page, btw: it is essental that the piece list is in view together with the diagram, because clicking on the piece name would show its moves in the diagram, and if that diagram is off-screen it completely defeats the purpose.